Brillion has earned a reputation among its loyal customers for giving long-term support to its products and keeping parts and documentation available for models that are decades old. However, given the wide variety of the company’s agricultural equipment, finding parts and information for a repair on your particular piece of equipment can be a task. Here are some ideas that will streamline the process:
- Learn the important identifiers for your equipment. Each product has a model number and a serial number. Both of these numbers are important to finding the right parts for your piece of equipment. They will tell a well-trained parts representative when your equipment was manufactured and what options your machine has.
- Use and carefully protect the product documentation for your equipment and know what documentation is additionally available. Each product includes an operator’s manual that outlines safety considerations, general operating guidelines and maintenance procedures. You can solve basic issues by spending a few minutes going over the operator’s manual.
- Follow maintenance procedures carefully. Taking care of your equipment goes a long way toward preventing costly repairs down the road. Check to make sure all hardware is properly tightened and torqued to specs. Change the oil at recommended intervals. Grease frequently. Use protective caps on hydraulic fittings and wipe fittings carefully before attaching hydraulics.
- Evaluate repair approaches carefully. If your equipment is under warranty, contact your Brillion dealer for service. When you’re faced with something that needs repair beyond the warranty period, realistically evaluate your skills and equipment before you decide whether to tackle the repair or call the dealer. Do you have the necessary tools and supplies? Do you have the space available, particularly if the repair will take an extended time? Do you have the service manual to guide you through the process? The answer to these questions will help decide who should ultimately take on the repairs.
How often do you hear “the acre meter on my seeder doesn’t work?”
In most cases the alignment of the pick up switch and magnet wheel or programming is the cause and a minor adjustment will cure the problem. The alignment of the pickup switch and magnet wheel is critical as shown in the diagram below.
The second major cause is incorrect programming of the counter. Refer to the acre meter or the seeder operator’s manual for the correct pulses and width settings for the model of seeder you are working with. Be aware that the width setting has a decimal place.
If the counter is password protected and the password has been lost and you need to change the settings, remove the four screws in the back cover of the counter and remove the three AAA batteries for 15 minutes. This should cancel the password while the total acres, pulses, and width setting should be retained. Reinstall the batteries and program as needed.
Problem – Brome box shaft working out to the right-hand end of the seeder and wearing out the roll pin and retainer plate.
To correct:
Check that the transmission shaft that drives the brome box is square in the transmission (sprocket must be parallel with the outer case plate) and aligned with the brome box shaft. Loosen bearings and adjust if necessary.
Check that seed boxes are level and straight from end to end. Loosen and adjust seed boxes from the center and right hand end brackets if necessary. It may also be necessary to make an adjustment of the left hand seed box on the transmission.
When properly aligned, the square brome box shaft will slide into the drive coupling without binding. Coat the inside of the drive coupling with Never-Seize.
Any or a combination of the above misalignment conditions can cause the problem.
Please refer to this file to review proper bearing handling and installation.
Deeper is not always better.
Running the front disc gangs too deep in heavy residue can cause the residue to build up and push in front of the gangs. The gangs are designed to be run at 3”– 4” deep for maximum cutting action. This setting creates an angle between the disc blade and ground that allows the residue to pinch between the disc blade and the ground for cutting.
It is important to stop the vibration to maintain the normal life of the machine. An unbalanced rotor can cause the machine to jump or shake and severe shaking can cause cracking in the hood and hood welds. Check the following to determine the cause:
1. Inspect rotors for missing, broken and uneven wear of knives. If one knife assembly is replaced with a new one, the closest knife on the opposite side (180 degrees) of the rotor must also be replaced with a new one to maintain rotor balance.
2. Inspect the end area of the rotors for missing weights – look for a partial weld where a block or bolt with washers would have been welded on.
3. Inspect for a bent rotor by looking for bent knife mounting bars. A wobbling pulley on the rotor is also an indication of a bent rotor.
To keep the shredder in optimum operating condition, refer to the maintenance section of the operator’s manual for:
1. Drive belt tension and pulley alignment and adjustment instructions.
2. Gearbox oil level and recommended type of lubricant.
3. Daily and periodic lubrication requirements.
4. Tire inflation pressure – Maintain equal pressure in all tires. Minimum 10 psi – Maximum 20 psi.
5. Cutting height adjustment – Recommended 2” minimum ground clearance of flail knives.
The torque requirement on the arbor bolt is 1185 ft lbs. Failure to torque the arbor bolt when servicing a gang will cause spacer or spool wear, which will allow the disc blades to become loose. Mushrooming or rolling on the end of the spacer where it contacts the disc blade is an indication that the arbor bolt is not tight enough. Failure to replace worn spacers will result in continuing gang looseness. The mating spacer and disc blade surfaces must be cleaned with a wire brush or putty knife before reassembling.
Check the shanks for looseness after running a few (20-40) acres. The tension is preset at the factory, but can change due to movement of the bracket on the bolts and can cause the shank to chatter when running. To check, put your foot on top of the point and push sideways, if the shank moves easily, the rear spring bracket requires adjustment. First check all rear bracket bolts for tightness; then loosen the two bolts that go thru the shank. Then adjust the set screw until the shank is snug when pushing sideways with your foot. Firmly tighten the rear bracket on the shank and tighten the set screw lock nut.
A sticky 5K849 depth control valve may be the problem.
1. Check that the valve spool is clean and lubricated.
2. Spool can be polished with fine crocus cloth.
3. If valve continues to stick, replace the two quad rings in valve with (1” OD x ¾” ID) o-rings. The quad rings are known to suck tight to the spool and prevent it from moving. To replace the quad rings:
A. Lock machine in transport position or lower to ground.
B. Relieve hydraulic pressure.
C. Make sure spool is clean & polished and does not have any burrs or the valve body will be damaged when removing spool.
D. Carefully remove (2 allen screws) cap on back of valve. CAUTION – there is a spring under pressure inside of cap.
E. Push spool out the back side of valve.
F. Replace the quad rings inside the valve body.
G. Reassemble valve.
For optimal performance the frame of these machines must be level with the ground in working position. The frame may not be level in transport position (raised out of the ground) when properly adjusted for working position.
Whenever a disc gang depth adjustment is made, the levelness of the frame needs to be checked and adjusted if necessary.
An unleveled machine will cause the front and rear shanks to work at different depths. A machine that is running high in the front can cause shank penetration problems and point wear problems.
Severely worn points can also cause shank penetration problems. Points must be replaced before the bottom of the shoe is worn away. A shoe that is completely worn away can cause wear to the shank which can result in replacement points not fitting properly.
The tightening procedure and torque requirement is critical in keeping the clamp tight and also has a significant affect on the bearing life of the axles with internal bearings.
Clamp Tightening Procedure:
1. Check axle and clamp for burs on mating surfaces.
2. Remove end play between wheels by sliding wheels toward the fixed end of axle.
3. Position clamp snugly against the end wheel.
4. Tighten the u-bolt evenly to 57ft/lbs. (U-bolt must be tightened first.)
5. Tighten set screws to 37 ft/lbs. (Some clamps do not have set screws).
6. If axle has an internal bearing, check that it turns freely. You should be able to turn bearing with your fingers. If rotation is jerky, loosen set screws and u-bolt until bearing turns smoothly. It may be necessary to loosen and reposition clamp.
The torque requirement is recommended for axles without internal bearings, but is not critical.
Axle Installation:
When installing a roller axle with an internal bearing onto a support bracket, it is important to keep the roller axle aligned as straight as possible to the installed position. If the roller assembly is significantly out of line when sliding it unto a fixed support, the inner race of the bearing may crack and cause premature bearing failure.
| Product | Set-Up Time |
|---|---|
| Land Commander III | 2.5 Hours per Shank |
| Compaction Commander | 1 Hour per Shank |
| Zone Commander | 1 Hour per Shank |
| Sub Soiler | 0.25 to 0.5 Hour per Shank |
| Soil Builder | 1.25 Hours per Shank |
| Chisel Plow | 0.25 Hour per Shank |
| PP Series Pulverizer | 1 to 2 Hours |
| P Series Pulverizer | 1 to 2 Hours |
| SD Series Pulverizer | 1 to 2 Hours |
| PFT Series Pulverizer | 2 to 3 Hours |
| PT Series Pulverizers | 3 Hours |
| Bridge Hitch | 3 Hours |
| X Series Pulverizer | 10 Hours + 3 to 4 Hours for Scraper Kits |
| XL Series Pulverizer | 10 Hours + 3 to 4 Hours for Scraper Kits |
| XXL Series Pulverizer | 10 Hours + 3 to 4 Hours for Scraper Kits |
| WFP Series Pulverizer | 10 Hours + 3 to 4 Hours for Scraper Kits |
| M & MD Series Pulvi-Mulcher | 6 Hours |
| ML Series Pulvi-Mulcher | 8 Hours |
| WL Series (21’8″ & 25′) Pulvi-Mulcher | 14 to 16 Hours |
| WL Series (30′) Pulvi-Mulcher | 20 Hours |
| Food Plot Seeder | Factory Assembled – 2 Hours of Prep Time |
| Till ‘N Seed | Factory Assembled – 1 Hour of Prep Time |
| 4′ to 6′ Ag Seeders | Factory Assembled – 1 Hour of Prep Time |
| 8′ to 12′ Ag Seeders | Factory Assembled – 2 Hours of Prep Time (If Shipped on Commercial Carrier – 4 Hours) |
| 5′ & 6′ Landscape Seeders | Factory Assembled – 1 Hour of Prep Time |
| 8′ to 12′ Landscape Seeders | Factory Assembled – 2 Hours of Prep Time (If Shipped on Commercial Carrier – 4 Hours) |
| Double Seeder Hitch | 5 Hours |
| 4630-36 Folding Seeder | 6 Hours |
| Flail Shredder | 2 Hours |
| Seedbed Mulch Tucker | 0.5 Hour |
